Island Batik Ambassador - Hobbs Modern Challenge

May's challenge for the Island Batik Ambassadors was to create a Modern Quilt that was used Hobbs Batting.  

There are lots of different interpretations of a Modern Quilt.  The Modern Quilt Guild defines a Modern Quilt as the following, “We define modern quilts as quilts that are functional, include bold colors, and are inspired by modern design. Minimalism, asymmetry expansive negative space, and alternate grid work are often a part of modern quilt compositions, as are improvisational piecing and solid fabrics.”

Many of the Modern Quilts are pieced quilts,  I took my Modern a different direction, I did mine as a raw edge applique quilt.   The batting and the fabrics I used in this quilt were given to me by Hobbs Batting and Island Batik.  The Island Batik Fabrics I used was leftover fabric from the Fall 2018, Ditty Collection. 

I designed this modern quilt myself using the Sue Pelland Designs, Hearts, and More Templates.  If you are not familiar with the Sue Pelland Designs templates, they are applique templates for rotary cutting using a 28mm cutter to cut around the curves.  The Hearts and More Templates allows you to cut applique pieces, such as Hearts, Circles, Paisley, and so much more.  This is the first time that I got to play with this set of templates, and it was so much fun.

My design for this quilt was to make three different panels.  These panels will have Hearts and Circles of different sizes floating around in the panels. 

Sue Pelland recommends fusing MistyFuse Fusible webbing on the back due to the softness and thinness of the fusible webbing.  With MisyFuse you fuse it to the back of your fabric before you cut. 

Once your MistyFuse is cooled and not tacky you can then start cutting your shapes with your templates. 

Once all my pieces were cut and placed on my long panels I then pressed them down with a hot iron.

Next, I tacked the shapes down with a nice blanket stitch with my Auriful Thread that matches perfectly.  

Once the panels applique was done, I then added thin strips in between the three panels to piece them together.

Now it was time to do a little ruler work on the longarm using the Hobbs Heirloom 80/20 Bleached cotton batting since my quilt was mainly white.

I had a hard time deciding on a type of quilting design I want to do on it.  I finally decided to do random swirling lines throughout the quilt top.  Finishing off with the same color of binding as the middle strip pieces.   

This quilt was so much fun to make and I loved playing with the Sue Pelland Rotary Cut Applique templates and look forward to doing more with them in the future.

June challenges are just around the corner, but if you would like to catch up on all the other Island Batik Ambassador projects for the May you can click on the links below.  

Carolina Asmussen ~Carolina Asmussen

Gene Black ~ Gene Black

Pamela Boatright ~ PamelaQuilts

Connie K Campbell ~ Freemotion by the River

Anja Clyke ~ Anja Quilts

Tina Dillard ~ Quilting Affection Designs

Becca Fenstermaker ~Pretty Piney

Jennifer Fulton ~ Inquiring Quilter

Barbara Gaddy ~ Bejeweled Quilts by Barb

Dione Gardner-Stephen ~ Clever Chameleon

Sarah Goer ~ Sarah Goer Quilts

Vasudha Govindan ~ Storied Quilts

Lori Haase ~ Dakota City Quilter II

Joanne Hart ~ Unicornharts

Mania (Magdalini) Hatziioannidi ~ Mania for Quilts

Carla Henton ~ Creatin in the Sticks

Stephanie Jacobson ~ Steph Jacobson Designs

Connie Kauffman ~ Kauffman Designs

Joan Kawano ~ Moosestash Quilting

Kim Lapacek ~ Persimon Dreams

Emily Leachman ~ The Darling Dogwood

Leanne Parsons ~ Devoted Quilter

Bea Lee ~ BeaQuilter

Toby Lischko ~ Gateway Quilts & Stuff

Bill Locke ~ Studio Bill Locke

Denise Looney ~ For the Love of Geese

Leah Malasky ~ Quilted Delights

Sally Manke ~ Sally Manke

Maryellen McAuliffe ~ Mary Mack's Blog

Kathleen McCormick ~ Kathleen McMusing

Carol Moellers ~ Carol Moellers Designs

Karen Neary ~ Sew Karen-ly Created

Lisa Nielsen ~ Lisa Lisa and the Quilt Jam

Jackie O’Brien ~ If These Threads Could Talk

Laura Piland ~ Slice of Pi Quilts

Michelle Roberts ~ Creative Blonde

Vicki Schlimmer ~ Vicki's Crafts and Quilting

Gail Sheppard ~ Quilting Gail

Sherry Shish ~ Powered by Quilting

Anita Skjellanger ~ Quilt in a not-Shell

Laticia "Tish" Stemple ~ Tish's Adventures in Wonderland

Jennifer Strauser ~ Dizzy Quilter

Jennifer Thomas ~ Curlicue Creations

Terri Vanden Bosch ~ Lizard Creek Quilts

Alison Vermilya ~ Little Bunny Quilts

Sandra Walker ~ mmm! quilts

Suzy Webster ~ Adventurous Applique and Quilting

(Debora) Anne Wiens ~ Seams like a Plan

Geraldine Wilkins ~ Living Water Quilter

Janet Yamamoto ~  Whispers of Yore

See you next month,

Tina

"Designs to Inspire"

Graceful Points QAL Block 9

Welcome back to the Graceful Points QAL it is amazing how time fly's by when we are having so much fun. Today we are releasing Block 9, which uses the Corner Beam® tool and introduces you to the Sliver Technique Sheet.

Block 9 is called in the Studio 180 Design Blockbuster #12 "Double Trek."  For this block, we will be using the BG, C3, and C4 fabrics, so please refer to your color chart found in your general instructions. You will also want to download Block 9 and Blockbuster #12 "Double Trek" Instructions, both are required to make your blocks.

Please remember that the pictures used in this tutorial are for the 6" block for the Wallhanging.  Be sure to read the Downloaded Block Instructions to get the correct cutting and trimming sizes for the 12" block, which are indicated in (Blue) parenthesis.

Let's get started by getting familiar with the Corner Beam tool.  

If you are new to the tool, I suggest checking out the Studio 180 Design Corner Beam Fundamentals YouTube Video, to get you started with the basic understanding of the Corner Beam® tool.

Unit A Corner Beam Unit

Center Beam

We are going to start off by cutting the center of our Corner Beam first. We will be using C4 fabric squares.  

Right Handed

Left Handed

Place your squares on your cutting mat.  Position the Corner Beam® tool so the dashed line labeled "Center Beam Trim #1" and the Finished Unit Line with the other edge of your fabric square.  Trim along the slanted edge of the tool.

Right Handed

Left Handed

Next, lift and Reposition the Corner Beam® tool, aligning the dashed line labeled "Center
Beam Trim #2" with the previously trimmed angle. 

Cut 2 Center Beams

Side Triangles

Right Handed

Left Handed

Gather your BG strips.  Position the Corner Beam® tool on the strip so that the Bold line labeled "Side Triangles Trim #1" aligns up against the trimmed end of the BG Strip and the Finished line against the bottom of the strip.  Trim along the slanted edge of the tool.

Right Handed

Left Handed

Rotate your tool, one quarter turn counterclockwise.  Positioning the line labeled Side Triangle Trim #2, against the slanted edge on the previously trimmed edge, making sure the bottom of your strim is lined up along the second trim line and Trim.

Cut 2 Side Triangle Pairs.

Arrange your Side Triangles and Center beam pieces. Assuring the short end and the angles align with the Center beam.

Position a side triangle onto the Center Beam placing them right sides together, assuring to offset the tip of the center beam about 1/4" above the side triangle.   Stitch the center beam on top of the sides triangle with a 1/4" seam allowance.  Press seams toward the side triangles.

Position the other side triangle on the other side.  Stitch with a 1/4" seam and Press seam toward the side triangles.  

Position the unit on your cutting mat.  Right-hand cutters place your point of the corner beam right side (see above) and Left handed cutters place the point of your corner beam to the right side.  

Aligning the "Seam Line Placement" guidelines with the diagonal seams of your unit.  Trim the two sides.

Rotate your Corner Beam unit 180°.  Making sure to align up the Finished size guidelines and the seam intersection nests in the "V" and the corner to corner diagonal seams fall right along with the points of the "V"s.  Trim the remaining sides of the units.

Make 2 Coner Beam units.

Unit B Sliver, Slant Rights

The Sliver units start with making four Half Square Triangles, as we have done with other blocks in the past.  Press the seams toward the background fabric. This time you Do Not need to Trim the units.  

Next, you will cut the two Side Triangle pairs as you did with the Corner Beam units.

Slant Right

Place the HST Unit so the wrong side is facing up.  Position the Corner Beam® tool so that the Dashed line labeled "Center Beam Trim #1" aligns up against the cutaway corner of the C3 fabric of the HST unit and Finished Unit line on the other edge of the C3 fabric square.  Trim along the slanted edge of the ruler.

Stitch the Side Triangle into the cutaway corner, lining up the raw edges and matching them corner to corner.  Press seams toward the C4 along the slanted edge of the ruler.

Position the unit on your mat with right side facing up.  Place the Corner Beam® tool on the unit.  Align one of the "Seam Line Placement" guidelines with the sewn seam between the sliver and added a side of the triangle, the crosshairs at the seam intersection and the "V" on the other sewn seam.  Trim the first two sides of your pieced unit.

Rotate the unit 180° and trim the remaining side of the unit.  Make sure that you align up the guidelines and making sure the seam intersection nestles in the size "V" and the corner to corner diagonal seams falls right along with the points of the "V"s. 

Make 2 Slant Right units.

Unit B Sliver, Slant Left

Place the HST unit so the Right side is facing up.  Position the Corner Beam® tool so that the Dashed line labeled "Center Beam Trim #1" aligns up against the cutaway corner of the C3 fabric of the HST unit and Finished Unit line on the other edge of the C3 fabric square.  Trim along the slanted edge of the ruler.

Stitch the Side Triangles into the cutaway corner as done with the Slant Right.  Press seams toward the side triangles.

Position the unit on the mat. Align the Position the Corner Beam® tool "Seam Line Placement" guidelines with the sean seam between the sliver and added side of the triangle, the crosshairs at the seam intersection and the Finished size "V" on the other sewn seam.  Trim the first sides.

Rotate the unit 180° and trim the remaining sides of the unit.

Make 2 Slant Left units.

Assembly

Now that you have all your units complete, its time to lay out Block #9.  Please follow Blockbuster page Download to make sure you lay out the units correctly.  Double checking you have the correct placement of all your units.

Block 9, "Double Trek" is now complete, I look forward to seeing your Blocks, and I hope you will share your photos in the comments section below or on the Graceful Points Facebook Group.  Additionally, you can post your blocks on Facebook or Instagram making sure to use the #gracefulpointsqal and/or #quiltingaffection designs.  I can't wait to see your blocks.

On Friday, June 7th will be the release date for our next block. In our next block, we will be using the Corner Pop® tool.  You can purchase them on my website.

Tina 

"Designing to Inspire"

Garden Enchantment BOM Block 2

Welcome back to Block 2 of the Garden Enchantment Block of the Month. 

Block 1

To recap Block 1, we used our V-Block, Square Squared, and Tucker Trimmer to make the following SideKick & High/Lows, Diamond in a Square, and Half Square Triangles units.  If you missed Block 1 and would like to catch up, you can do so by clicking HERE and don't forget to purchase your pattern also.

Month 2

Month 2

Month 2 is now available for purchase.  You will also need the following Studio 180 Design tools to make this month blocks; Wing Clipper® I, and Square Squared 6".  This block will consist of the following, Flying Geese and Diamond in a Square units.  For this block, we are going to make 4 blocks that will measure 9" square finished.


Please note that if you are purchasing a printed pattern, there will be a slight delay in the shipment of the pattern due to I will be attending quilt market started May 13-May 21st.  All orders will be shipped first thing May 22nd.

Start off by gathering all your fabrics and tools. Then following your cutting instructions for all your components.


Let's get Started by with Fly Geese.

If you are not familiar with your Wing Clipper® tool, it's recommended you read the tool instructions and watch the following Deb Tucker Video "What's a Wing Clipper?" 

1.  Start off by gathering your small and large squares for your flying geese units.  Please remember 4-small squares and 1-large square will equal 4 flying geese units.

2. Using your Quilter's Magic Wand, mark two stitching lines that are 1/4" from the center diagonal on the wrong sides of the small squares.  Hint: use a thin pencil lead or pen.

3.  Position two small squares diagonally in opposite corners on a large square.  Hint: Please remember to nudge each small square toward the center about 3 or 4 threads from the raw edge of the large square.

4.  Stitch on the drawn lines, then cut apart between the stitching on the center diagonal. Press the small triangles away from the large triangles.

5. Position one small square to each triangle unit.  Again please remember to nudge in 3 to 4 threads from the raw edge of the larger triangle section.

6. Stitch on the drawn lines, then cut apart between the lines of the stitching on the center diagonal.  

7. Press the seams toward the outside.

Right Handed

Left Handed

8. Align the diagonal guidelines of the Wing Clipper® I with the seams of the Flying Geese unit.  Centering the tool over the size specified in your directions. Trim the side and across the top.

Right Handed

Left Handed

9. Rotate your flying geese unit 180° and reposition the Wing Clipper® I to align the previously trimmed raw edge size and "X" at the top with the intersections of the seams.  Trim the remaining sides again.

Make all the Flying Geese that are indicated in you block 2 instructions.

Diamond in a Square

Now we are going to make the Diamond in a Square unit.  I will be only doing a quick overview of the process in this blog post since we made these in block 1 if you would like to review to process in full detail, please read Block1 part 2 blog post.  

Please remember to refer back to your pattern instructions and gather your squares.

1. Using your Center Square Section of the Square Squared® tool over the purple strip.  Place your tool on the trimmed edge of the strip, lining up the corner of the strip with the center to the correct finished size. Trim up the side and across the top of the strip.

2. Take your white squares and cut them on the diagonal once to yield two triangles per square.

3.  Position 2 triangles on opposite sides of the trimmed center square. Stitch the two triangles with the square on top of the triangle with your best 1/4" seam.  Press away from the center.

4.  Position the remaining two triangles on the sides of the center square.  Again remember to place the square on top of the triangle when stitching with a 1/4" seam allowance. Press seams away from the center.

5.  Using your Trim Down Section of your Square Squared® tool over the unit trim down to size.  Again if you need more instructions on trimming, please refer to Block1, Part 2 blog post.

Repeat to make 8 Diamond in a Square units.

Assembly

Center Block

Center Block

1.  Start by gathering your Lt. purple squares, dark purple Flying geese, and Diamond in a Square units and laying them out to form the block in the diagram above.

2.  Stitch units into rows, Pressing according to the diagram.

3.  Stitch the rows together, Pressing according to the diagram.

Sides

Side 1

Side 2

Next, stitch together the sides of for the Center Block, according to your pattern instructions.

Block 2A

Block 2A

1. Start off by stitching the Sides on the center block. Assuring the Side 1 Flying Geese are placed on the Left side of the center.  Pressing according to the diagram.

2. Next, stitch together the top and bottom rows.  Once you have them stitch together, Position the light green row on top and the dark row on the bottom and stitch them in place and pressing according to the diagram.

Block 2B

Block 2B

Block 2B assembly is the same as the previous Block 2A.  The only difference is the placement of Side 1 and Side 2.  Side 2 will be now placed on the Right side of the center unit. 

You will make Four Block 2A and Four Block 2B.

This completes your blocks for this month.  See you on June 15th for Block 2 release and tutorials.

Tina

"Designing to Inspire"